Reviews

Borinquen: The Pizzeria-Restaurant That Explains Poinciana

At 888 Cypress Parkway, Borinquen Restaurant & Pizzeria serves Puerto Rican home cooking and New York-style pizza in the same room — a thesis statement for the community around it.

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Some restaurants explain a place. Borinquen Restaurant & Pizzeria, at 888 Cypress Parkway in Poinciana, is a thesis statement: Puerto Rican home cooking and New York-style pizza, served in the same room, to a community that grew up on both. The restaurant’s own description of itself is disarmingly direct — authentic Latin favorites and pizza classics, made fresh daily — and the menu backs it up at a length most kitchens would split into two restaurants.

Two menus, one community

The Latin side runs deep: mofongo (with chicken, shrimp or steak), pernil, pollo asado, bistec encebollado, carne guisada, bacalao, asopao, pasteles, alcapurrias, yuca frita and the tripleta — the three-meat sandwich that is Puerto Rico’s gift to the hoagie form. The Italian side is not a token: pizza by the pie, calzones and stromboli, lasagna, spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parmesan, garlic knots. This is the Poinciana palate on one laminated page — the island kitchen and the Bronx pizzeria, which for a great many families here are the same childhood.

The room and the role

Borinquen sits in the middle of the Cypress Parkway row, among the bakeries, Caribbean counters and pizza shops that feed the community daily — see our guide to eating in Poinciana for the full corridor. Its catering operation serves the same menu across Poinciana and Kissimmee, which tells you its real job: this is the community’s default celebration kitchen, the place trays of pernil and rice come from when a Poinciana family feeds fifty people. Restaurants like that are infrastructure.

Before you go

The magazine’s rankings have not scored Borinquen — it appears here as researched local knowledge, not as a ranked entry, and our Poinciana hub is explicit about which tables nearby carry Net Scores (they are in Kissimmee and Hunter’s Creek, labelled as such). Check the restaurant’s own site for the day’s hours before you drive, order the mofongo if it is your first visit, and do not skip the fritura case on the way to your table. In a community of 69,000 people that the region too often drives past, Borinquen is the table where Poinciana explains itself.

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Sofia Marchetti

Food & Dining reporter for Orlando Citizen. Covers restaurant openings, closings and DBPR inspection results, tied to the Top Businesses rankings.