Reviews

Pizza Bruno: The Wood-Fired Pie Worth Crossing Town For

At 3990 Curry Ford Road, a Ferrari-red oven, naturally leavened dough and garlic knots with a cult following have made Pizza Bruno MICHELIN Recommended — and No. 9 in our Orlando pizza rankings.

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Every food city has one address that settles an argument. In Orlando, for pizza, that address is increasingly 3990 Curry Ford Road. Pizza Bruno sits in a modest strip along the eastern end of the Hourglass District corridor, near Conway Road, and from the outside it makes no grand claims. Inside, a Ferrari-red wood-fired oven does the talking. The restaurant describes itself simply as a neighbourhood pizzeria and Italian eatery; the MICHELIN Guide, Visit Orlando and a loyal citywide following describe it rather more warmly.

The ranking, stated plainly

In Orlando Citizen’s rankings, Pizza Bruno stands No. 9 for pizza in Orlando with a Net Score of 91.4 — see Best Pizza in Orlando for the full table and methodology. The category’s winner feature profiles a different pizzeria, Mister O1, and we link it here only as the category winner; Bruno’s case rests on its own oven. Visit Orlando’s Curry Ford West guide likewise singles Bruno out as MICHELIN Recommended dining in the district, and the MICHELIN Guide’s own write-up praises a small room with a big oven, bright walls and a neighbourhood feel, where meatballs and garlic knots make a hearty start before the pies.

What comes out of the oven

The style is neo-Neapolitan: naturally leavened dough, fermented at cold temperatures — accounts of the kitchen describe a long, slow ferment — then fired fast at very high heat in the wood-burning oven until the crust blisters and chars at the edges while staying chewy within. The menu mixes discipline and mischief. There are the classics done properly, and then there are Bruno signatures that regulars order by name: the Crimson Ghost, the Dirt Nap, the Roni, and a white pie, the Lover Boy Blue, that the MICHELIN Guide describes with mozzarella and fontina, fresh blueberries that burst in the heat, and a finish of rosemary, honey and bacon. A Blanca with lemon ricotta draws its own devotees. None of this is novelty for its own sake; the combinations work because the base — dough, sauce, cheese, fire — is handled with unusual care.

Start with the knots

If one item has escaped the restaurant and entered Orlando folklore, it is the garlic knots. They arrive dressed in what the menu itself cheerfully calls too much garlic, crisp outside and dense and chewy within, and they are the rare signature starter that deserves the reputation. Build the rest of the order around them: wood-fired cauliflower and grilled octopus both appear on the menu alongside the pies, a reminder that the kitchen thinks beyond pizza even though pizza is plainly the point. There is a full bar and craft beer on tap, a patio for the months when Orlando evenings cooperate, and a weekend brunch service that gives the oven a morning shift.

How to do a visit well

Go in the pattern the room rewards. Weekday service leans toward dinner, with lunch joining at weekends — check the restaurant’s own site before you set out, because a destination pie deserves a confirmed table rather than a hopeful drive. Order the knots first, split one classic and one signature pie rather than doubling down on either, and leave room to argue about which was better; that argument is half the tradition now. Bruno is the eastern anchor of a corridor that starts, at its west end, with coffee and tamales — plot the whole run on the Orlando Top Spots Map, and pair dinner here with a pint earlier at Hourglass Brewing if you are making an evening of the district. Small room, big oven, long ferment, short menu of things done properly: that is the whole formula, and on Curry Ford Road it is enough to beat almost anywhere in the city.

It is also, not incidentally, the dish that anchors the east end of the corridor: diners who come to Curry Ford Road for Bruno discover the brewery, the pubs and the Social House on the same trip, which is how a single restaurant ends up feeding a whole district’s footfall.

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Sofia Marchetti

Food & Dining reporter for Orlando Citizen. Covers restaurant openings, closings and DBPR inspection results, tied to the Top Businesses rankings.